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Old November 18th, 2008, 02:40 PM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,160
If you want caster correction, Old Man Emu makes caster-correcting bushings with eccentric centers. Normally, these aren't an option for me because I don't want poly bushings. But if you're going to go with poly bushings anyway, then I think swapping bushings makes more sense than swapping arms.

Another option for caster correction is to solve the problem at the swivel balls rather than the arms. Many people with caster-corrected radius arms have experienced increased driveline vibrations because their front pinions are pointing more downward than before. This lower pinion angle combined with the lift usually associated with such vehicles often results in driveline vibes. The front driveshaft is short and it's out of phase from the factory. Most people have had better luck with driveline vibes by leaving the factory radius arms and correcting caster at the swivel balls.

I think an easier solution than either of the above-mentioned solutions is to install a TruTrac front diff. The TT makes the vehicle self-center better than when it was stock. And I get more traction up front and a stronger front diff to boot. To me, this is easier than swallowing a bird to catch the spider, which you swallowed to catch the fly, which you shouldn't have swallowed in the first place.

The rear pinion angle is adjustable without changing the ball joint. Just change the length of the trailing arms. That's what I did. I just installed longer bushing bolts and used washers as shims until I found the length that I wanted. When I ordered a set of trailing arms from Rock Ware, I just told Matt what length I wanted. Now I have the pinion angle I wanted and the factory ball joint is still intact. I figured I was going to order new trailing arms anyway (the factory trailing arms are actually parts that fail and should be replaced), so why not specify a length for my replacement trailing arms.

I think you're confusing drop and flex for the front arms. I don't doubt that the poly-bushed radius arms can drop past the extended length of the OME shocks. However, these arms with poly bushings will not flex the way the factory radius arms with rubber bushings will. The design of the radius arms wants to twist the front axle at full flex. The radius arms are joined to the front axle at fixed points. With one arm pointing up and the other pointing down, the front axle wants to twist. Of course the bushings give more easily than the front axle casing, and they compress before the axle twists. This is what limits front articulation in the Land Rovers. It's also what causes poly bushings to split and fail.
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