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Old November 18th, 2008, 03:55 PM
Scott Brady Scott Brady is offline
Scott Brady
KE7PNP
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 267
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlee
If you want caster correction, Old Man Emu makes caster-correcting bushings with eccentric centers. Normally, these aren't an option for me because I don't want poly bushings. But if you're going to go with poly bushings anyway, then I think swapping bushings makes more sense than swapping arms.

They are an option, but not durable enough for my needs. I have witnessed the OME caster correction bushing fail in less than one day of hard use. The nature of their design reduces the bushing material on one side of the bushing and increases it on the other, changing the caster of the axle. Unfortunately, they don't prove reliable.

The swivel ball is certainly an option, but the arms resolved all of my concerns at once.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlee
I think an easier solution than either of the above-mentioned solutions is to install a TruTrac front diff. The TT makes the vehicle self-center better than when it was stock. And I get more traction up front and a stronger front diff to boot. To me, this is easier than swallowing a bird to catch the spider, which you swallowed to catch the fly, which you shouldn't have swallowed in the first place.

The TT is certainly a solution for a vehicle limited to desert travel. Its appeal quickly deteriorates anytime snow, ice or slick surfaces are encountered. Understeer is violent and entirely unpredictable on these surfaces.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlee
The rear pinion angle is adjustable without changing the ball joint. Just change the length of the trailing arms. That's what I did. I just installed longer bushing bolts and used washers as shims until I found the length that I wanted. When I ordered a set of trailing arms from Rock Ware, I just told Matt what length I wanted. Now I have the pinion angle I wanted and the factory ball joint is still intact. I figured I was going to order new trailing arms anyway (the factory trailing arms are actually parts that fail and should be replaced), so why not specify a length for my replacement trailing arms.

Great solution for your application. I wanted complete adjustability, as my goal is to retain the rotoflex, which actually requires the pinion and prop-shaft to be at the same angle. If the rotoflex and a skid-plate proves unreliable, I will switch to a new driveshaft with a u-joint, in which case both the pinion and t-case angles will need to be the same to eliminate vibration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlee
I think you're confusing drop and flex for the front arms.

Based on my configuration, both crossed-axle articulation and maximum suspension extension are limited by the OME (N115) shock with the Inland Rover arms. With the front shock unbolted, crossed-axle articulation will drop another 1 1/4" before ultimate bind of the bushing in the arm cradle bracket.
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