Originally Posted by chris snell
On a similar topic, do you guys carry an extra solenoid in your spares kit?
I think this comes down to what you need to get home and what you need to keep going.
That is to say, if you just need to be able to limp it, a truck like a mechanical diesel Ex-Mod isn't going to need a lot go keep rolling. However, if you're on a challenging route and you want to keep going forward you might need the vehicle to be closer to full performance.
I carry far fewer spares in the 300Tdi 110 then I did in the V8 Disco 1 and even fewer in the LJ78 Land Cruiser. When we hit Death Valley John was positively shocked at how little I brought in the Toyota. That's mainly due to the much stronger drivetrain. The LJ78 axles, CVs, R&P and driveshafts are so strong that even with ARBs front and rear it would be hard to break anything with the 2LTE 2.4L turbo-diesel.
In the case of your 110 I would prioritize spares in the following six categories of descending importance:
In the first
category you have whatever you need to be able direct the truck whether it's moving under its own power or not. It's nearly impossible to extract a truck you cannot steer. This means TREs, steering column coupling, tie rod (if not HD) and drop link (if not HD). This does not necessarily mean any P/S components.
In the second
cateogry you have the items necessary to keep the wheels turning. This is largely tire related as those constitute the vast majority of failures in the field. Safety seal, valves, cores, on-board air etc. Then you have wheel and hub components. On your 110 wheel bearings are important. They can literally weld themselves to the stub axle when they fail. Grease and appropriate seals to go with the bearings.
In the third
you have powertrain components. These are the essentials to keep the engine firing even if it's not running optimally. This meant a huge box on the EFI V8s but it's nice and small with the 300 Tdi. Essentials would be a lift pump, fuel cut-off solenoid, timing belt and spare oil filter (should it be perforated). The serpentine belt isn't really essential to just limp but why wouldn't you bring it? A throttle cable is similarly easy to bring. You also need to be prepared for turbo failure that results in oil consumption. This could be catastrophic if you don't realize when it's happening. You need to have a means to choke the engine out of air to kill it and then you need to be able block the turbo feed and return cooler lines, remove all boost, turn down the fuel and run the truck NA. That's just to limp. If you want to keep driving to Patagonia you should just have a spare turbo. Oil cooler lines should be converted to braided stainless. They can still leak but they won't burst. You should have some engine oil. How much is up to you. Bulk fuel line is also good. Even if you don't have means to complete a fuel line you should have a means to block it off. Diesels can run on reduced cylinders. It's angry but it works. However, they cannot run without sufficient fuel pressure and that requires a closed system. If you're leaking fuel anywhere but from the return line it's going to be rough. A spare IP would be bulky, heavy and expensive but it sure would be nice.
If your truck has an autobox you'll need a starter. If your truck is a manual I consider at least the rebuild kits for the clutch MC and slave to be essential. I'd rather have the entire units. You can do a lot of angry powershifting when your hydraulics go but it's going to be pretty rough. These components are junk and they fail all the time. You should have some gearbox fluid and some clutch/brake fluid. How much is up to you.
In the fourth
category are the driveline parts that keep all four wheels turning. You can take a pass on many parts in this category if all you need to do is drive home on a highway, but if you've driven into something tough and it's going to be a hard drive out, you might want to have the means to keep all of your capabilities. At least one set of U-joints is essential. It's not impossible to have both drive shafts suffer failure. You'll be dead in the water with no driveshafts. With the 300 Tdi I believe that HD driveline components are unlikely to break but stockers are still vulnerable particularly with traction differentials. If you still have an open front carrier with 10/24 half shafts this is a serious vulnerability. The carrier housing can break even if everything else is also stock. Those half-shafts aren't especially strong on the 10 spline end either. Similarly the 3.54 R&P in the front is weak on the reverse side so you need to take that into account. A single CV certainly makes sense if you want to keep fourwheeling. A lot of driveline failures are going to require you to open things up and fish broken parts out before you can keep going. Wouldn't you rather be able to put the replacement in right then and there rather then leaving it empty only to have to tear into it again? Keep in mind that a half-shaft acts as an oil seal and if you run without it things will get messy fast. You should have some gear oil. How much is up to you.
category consists of engine cooling. The engine doesn't need to be cooled at all to run. But you will only be able to travel very short distances before you have to shut it down over and over again. Hoses are a great spare. They are cheap, light and easy. Similarly the WP on a 300 Tdi is like fifty bucks. Just bring it. The fan is vulnerable but it's a difficult spare. I'd like to find a metal replacement like the NAPA astro van fan for the V8s. The fan clutch is not necessary. If your expansion tank is plastic make sure it's a new white one. That plug on the thermostat housing can be replaced with the brass one just like the radiator. Ditch the plastic and forget about it. 300 Tdi's run pretty cool. This is a pretty low area of concern but if you have coolant pouring out on the ground it's an issue you'll need to address. How much coolant you bring is up to you. Obviously you can just add tap water but you'll want to flush the whole system later.
and final category is mending. This is just all the bits your bring along to make your own repairs instead of R&R. Fuses, wire, connectors, right stuff, hylomar, JB weld, PB Blastr, zip ties, hoes clamps, duct tape, assorted fasteners, bulk fuel line, bulk coolant hose, rivets
A few gravy spares that aren't so essential but make life so much better would be an alternator, brake lines, spare shocks, etc. The Tdi's will run a long time on a big battery with no alternator as long as you don't have any lights on, but it will die eventually when there isn't power to keep the fuel solenoid open. I don't consider braking all that crucial, but it sure is nice. Land Rovers have such an outstanding hand brake that you can do a lot with that alone, but having real brakes sure is easier. I try to have appropriate shocks so I don't bring spares but some people (*cough* Rob Davison *cough) break a shock on every trip. Headlight bulbs are also small and light. The gravy spares are typically things you add after they broke and you were annoyed. It's more about learning from experience.
Hope that helps.