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Old October 2nd, 2007, 02:33 PM
kennith kennith is offline
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NC
Posts: 46
Roof rack flooring...just a bit, I promise.

I can't seem to find the thread where Ho said what he used. I'd like a few details.

I have 2 4X8 foot, 1/2 inch thick sheets of black Seaboard HDPE, but I bought them for something else, and I think they will be too heavy. As I recall, you fellows are using some sort of lighter material.

Currently, I have the chicken floor. Yes, I have it. I am frustrated with the holes in it, to be honest, I think the roof could be kept far cleaner of sap and things if I just have a solid sheet up there, plus, it will look simpler and cleaner, and posibly keep the cabin cooler. It will get me a chance to play with stainless steel bolts and boat hardware again anyway.

I really like the way yours looks in the pictures I have found. I assume you have used a countersunk SS machine head bolt, with some sort of strap and nut underneath the bars. Primarily, I am interested in knowing just what you would recommend as far as flooring goes.

If you are satisfied with it after all this time, it should be well good enough for me.

I know this was discussed somewhere before, but I just can't find it. I didn't want to call just to ask what you have on your rack.


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Old October 4th, 2007, 07:06 AM
JSQ JSQ is offline
Jack Quinlan
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3,490

1/2" Seaboard will do well.

There are lighter variants, but standard "Seaboard" or "Starboard" will work. I've used almost all of them.
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Old October 4th, 2007, 11:44 AM
kennith kennith is offline
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NC
Posts: 46
Well, I'll have a look then. I can always get more for my other project.

Still, a sheet of this stuff I think is darn heavy. I hope it doesn't affect the CoG too badly. That's the big benefit of the chicken floor, I think.

I'd order a 1/4 inch sheet, but I don't think I can get away with countersinking if I do that. I did look at the lightweight stuff on a few websites, and it's completely different.

Oh, well. I guess I'll just try it.

You don't have a shot of how you guys are holding the stuff down, do you? I've got a plan, but there is no sense in trying something new if others have a way that works.

I'm headed to boater's world now to have a look at my options. It's time to touch up the rack anyway, I may as well finish the job while I'm at it.


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Old October 7th, 2007, 08:53 PM
Brett Gottdener Brett Gottdener is offline
Brett Gottdener
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 27
I used a piece of sheet aluminum. I think I used a thickness between 1/8" and 1/16" in a stiff alloy. The frame of my rack is 1" square tubing. I attached the panel by laying down a bead of flexible caulk, drilled through the floor into the tubing, and used aluminum pop rivets to secure it. I used about 50 rivets. I went with aluminum rivets because I'd rather they corrode before the floor, and they're easy to replace. The caulk is still flexible after 6 years. I think the aluminum was ~$120.

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Old October 9th, 2007, 02:05 AM
kennith kennith is offline
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NC
Posts: 46
I've never really been into that idea. I had decided a long time ago to go with hdpe, I just didn't know which thickness I was after, or if I wanted a lightweight version or not.

As it turns out, I went in after months of staring at the stuff, and lifted it quite easily. I have bad days every now and again, and when I moved it last I must have been having a bad day. It only weighs 83 pounds. That's nothing really, but when you are fighting an urge to vomit, it feels quite heavy.

I successfully made the cuts and notches today, and I'll cut some holes tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get to a router table in the next couple of days. It's looking good so far. It's heaver than the chicken stuff, but I don't think it will be a big issue.

As a note, I found that this material likes to be cut fast. Low RPMs, and a fast pass with the saw seems to keep things cool. The spec sheet I found said a blade with teeth no more than 15mm apart, and preferring an 80 tooth standard circular blade. It also reccomended a 1750 RPM saw, which is just darn hard to find. Worm gear saws can get close though. It worked out with a borrowed direct drive circular saw and a holow ground 100 tooth blade, but I could tell that lower RPMs and a higher pass speed would have made it much easier.


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Old November 4th, 2008, 09:12 AM
craig craig is offline
Craig Miller
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Posts: 33
When I had my roofrack, I used 3/8" King Starlite which worked well. It was thin enough that with a little bit of heat it was easily formed to the contour of the rack on the Disco. Total weight was about 35lbs.
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