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Old July 2nd, 2010, 10:23 AM
jrose609 jrose609 is offline
Jason Rose
KF7YVN
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 276
D1 EGT gauge question

I originally posted this in the Snorkel thread. I realize I should have posted here first.

Diesel conversion brings up a couple of questions.

I have a 300tdi in my 1997 D1. I would like to add a couple of gauges. I need to add an EGT gauge and possibly a turbo boost gauge. I want to avoid being a "Plumbers Snorkel" candidate, but I want to be able to monitor EGT and boost. I think its important in diesel

Does anyone have any suggestions for a good, clean install of one or two gauges in a D1?
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  #2  
Old July 3rd, 2010, 09:16 AM
JSQ JSQ is offline
Jack Quinlan
KI6CTP
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3,490
For Disco1 I like replacing the digital clock with a read-out for EGT. You can get a very basic display that's a reasonable approximation of the factory clock. Those clocks always die anyways.

I wouldn't worry too much about a boost gauge.
Most of the dial gauges don't give you a very accurate reading (at least the gauges aren't hashed for more than a few psi). It's really only good for telling you when your turbo has died and you have no boost. You'll know when that happens without a gauge.
However, it is important to know exact boost when you're tuning your turbo and fuel. For this I made a fitting to run a Snap-On diagnostic vacuum gauge showing 0.25 psi increments. On the 300Tdi intake manifold there is threaded plug at the rear towards the firewall. This bolt is a weirdo M12x1.50. It's not the sort of thing you're likely to run out and find a barbed hose fitting for. Most people just tap the whole into the manifold. I didn't feel like changing this and I also didn't want to deal with the possibility of metal shavings in my intake. I elected to get an additional M12x1.50 bolt and drill out the center and tap the bolt head for a brass barbed fitting. I fit a copper sealing washer and threaded it back into the manifold. From there you can run a diagnostic gauge to get max boost and then take out the adapter when you're done and put the factory bolt back in.
Additionally you can leave the fitting in to run a boost gauge if you have your heart set on it or you can re-route your injector pump wastegate signal from the manifold to get true boost pressure.
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  #3  
Old July 3rd, 2010, 11:39 AM
jrose609 jrose609 is offline
Jason Rose
KF7YVN
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 276
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSQ
For Disco1 I like replacing the digital clock with a read-out for EGT. You can get a very basic display that's a reasonable approximation of the factory clock. Those clocks always die anyways.

That's a great idea, and an idea I definitely did not think of. I'm not huge on the idea of a digital readout of anything, but it makes sense. I never bought into the digital watch craze when I was a kid......but the digital gauge would be replacing a digital watch anyway. Sounds good.



Quote:
Originally Posted by JSQ
I wouldn't worry too much about a boost gauge.
Most of the dial gauges don't give you a very accurate reading (at least the gauges aren't hashed for more than a few psi). It's really only good for telling you when your turbo has died and you have no boost. You'll know when that happens without a gauge.
However, it is important to know exact boost when you're tuning your turbo and fuel. For this I made a fitting to run a Snap-On diagnostic vacuum gauge showing 0.25 psi increments. On the 300Tdi intake manifold there is threaded plug at the rear towards the firewall. This bolt is a weirdo M12x1.50. It's not the sort of thing you're likely to run out and find a barbed hose fitting for. Most people just tap the whole into the manifold. I didn't feel like changing this and I also didn't want to deal with the possibility of metal shavings in my intake. I elected to get an additional M12x1.50 bolt and drill out the center and tap the bolt head for a brass barbed fitting. I fit a copper sealing washer and threaded it back into the manifold. From there you can run a diagnostic gauge to get max boost and then take out the adapter when you're done and put the factory bolt back in.
Additionally you can leave the fitting in to run a boost gauge if you have your heart set on it or you can re-route your injector pump wastegate signal from the manifold to get true boost pressure.

My turbo and fuel are at the stock settings. I'm planning on keeping them that way. I like the engine to be as cool as possible. I'm more concerned about being cool than producing extra horsepower. The ability to tune is good though. I will definitely look into making an adapter.

Thanks for the help, Jack. You've given me some ideas to get started.
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