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  #1  
Old September 27th, 2005, 05:25 PM
Nadir_E
 
Posts: n/a
Classes / Training

While we were on the subject of Bill Burke's events this weekend, someone mentioned a class they took where the teacher pointed out that something like 80% of trail-related mechanical problems were with tires, rather than engines, suspension, etc.

Does anyone remember who that instructor was?

What other classes/programs are out there that are worth the time?

thanks,
-Nadir
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  #2  
Old September 27th, 2005, 06:27 PM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,153
The tire thing was said by Tom Severin. Check out:

http://www.4x4training.com/

And look who's on Tom's home page.

The 80% or 90% or whatever number it was seems obvious. Most people would respond with something like, "oh I knew that." But did they really? I don't think so. Most people's field tool sets certainly don't reflect that. Of all the things I picked up in Tom's 4x4 training, that single fact stuck in my mind more than anything else.
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  #3  
Old September 27th, 2005, 07:17 PM
traveltoad traveltoad is offline
Aaron Shrier
KI6BCA
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Fernando Valley
Posts: 2,628
Hey that's a really nice rover on Tom's web page!!!
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  #4  
Old September 28th, 2005, 08:57 AM
Nadir_E
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlee
The tire thing was said by Tom Severin. ...The 80% or 90% or whatever number it was seems obvious. Most people would respond with something like, "oh I knew that." But did they really? I don't think so. Most people's field tool sets certainly don't reflect that. ...

So besides a properly sized spare tire, Safety Seal tire repair kit, and Power tank, what else would you think is necessary?

If memory serves, the pressure in the Power tank isn't enough to re-seat a tire that's off its bead. I recall hearing you talk about a method using lighter-fluid/gasoline and matches that was... darwinian in nature? I know that there are tools out there to strip a tire off the wheel (and vice versa) but you still need to re-seat the bead!

One method I recall hearing about for getting side-wall damaged tires back into temporary operation was to carry an inner tube. You pull the old tire off, use heavy fishing line (or the like) to stitch the gash closed, put in the inner tube and inflate it. Sounds easier than I'm sure it is.

-Nadir
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  #5  
Old September 28th, 2005, 11:12 AM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,153
I would definitely get a valve core tool and carry spare valve stems.

The PT is more than enough to reseat a bead. Simply pull the valve core and put the coupler on the valve stem. Pushing the coupler onto the valve stem will open the coupler and cause air to rush into the tire.

The inner tube could work, but that sounds like a lot of work. You would have to pull the tire from the rim, and that takes a lot of tools and a lot of time.
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  #6  
Old September 28th, 2005, 07:04 PM
traveltoad traveltoad is offline
Aaron Shrier
KI6BCA
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Fernando Valley
Posts: 2,628
After removing the core I watched Tom Severin re seat a tire using an ARB compressor.
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  #7  
Old September 28th, 2005, 07:11 PM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,153
Damn!
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  #8  
Old September 28th, 2005, 07:52 PM
Nadir_E
 
Posts: n/a
Well that's good to know the compressors/power-tanks can re-seat a tire. Wonder where I got the idea they couldn't.... must be old age!

Still on the subject of practical tools/techniques...

I was talking with a fire extinguisher guy today looking for a halon filled extinguisher. He made some good arguments (aside from cost) for powder-based extinguishers versus halon-based for a vehicle-fire scenario. The problem with halon is that it will disperse fairly quickly outdoors (powder will not). Thus, if the source of the fire is still present (e.g. leaking fuel and a hot engine) it could re-ignite. The problem with powder is that the contents are corrosive so post-fire clean-up needs to be extremely thorough. Another plus for powder is that for an equivalent rating (in volume, not type of fire) you'll need less than if using halon.

-Nadir
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  #9  
Old September 28th, 2005, 08:09 PM
greghirst greghirst is offline
Greg Hirst
KI6CQL
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,290
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nadir_E
I was talking with a fire extinguisher guy today looking for a halon filled extinguisher. He made some good arguments (aside from cost) for powder-based extinguishers versus halon-based for a vehicle-fire scenario. The problem with halon is that it will disperse fairly quickly outdoors (powder will not). Thus, if the source of the fire is still present (e.g. leaking fuel and a hot engine) it could re-ignite. The problem with powder is that the contents are corrosive so post-fire clean-up needs to be extremely thorough. Another plus for powder is that for an equivalent rating (in volume, not type of fire) you'll need less than if using halon.

-Nadir

Yep. That's why I carry one of each. If the Halon or Halotron doesn't kill it then you've got powder just in case...
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  #10  
Old September 28th, 2005, 09:45 PM
Nadir_E
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by greghirst
Yep. That's why I carry one of each. If the Halon or Halotron doesn't kill it then you've got powder just in case...

I was considering the same thing. Where and how do you mount your extinguishers, Greg?

Also, the guy I was talking to said that car fires are fairly rare but when they happen they're notoriously hard to put out. He cited the fact that they typically start in the engine compartment and that once they've begun, it's hard to get the hood open so the extinguisher can be emptied directly onto the burning components. (reasons he gave for it being difficult include a flare-up as the fire is exposed to more oxygen and failures of the hood release cable due to the fire)

I noticed on another site someone's use of hood retaining pins in lieu of the factory hook and wondered if a side benefit of this would be easier access in the event of a fire. I, personally, have had trouble with the hood release on my D-90 (pulling the release failed to open the hood - had to have it serviced to get it to work again), so this holds some interest for me.

-Nadir
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  #11  
Old September 28th, 2005, 10:38 PM
greghirst greghirst is offline
Greg Hirst
KI6CQL
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,290
LOL-I'm not the best person to talk to regarding proper stowage...

However, I do plan to someday mount a powder-coated aluminum plate where the spare tire used to fit in the rear of my RRC and install the two extinguishers and PowerTank to it.

I've also thought about on the floor directly in front of the driver's seat for ease of getting to but think that it might be problematic for dirt/debris and getting knocked around.
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  #12  
Old October 1st, 2005, 03:08 PM
dave_lucas
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nadir_E
Well that's good to know the compressors/power-tanks can re-seat a tire. Wonder where I got the idea they couldn't.... must be old age!

Cinching a ratchet strap (or tie down strap) around the diameter of the tire will make it a little easier to seat the bead
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