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  #26  
Old March 8th, 2007, 01:34 PM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,056
The harmonic damper on the rear third member is on my truck. It's a Disco2 harmonic damper. It actually makes quite a difference. I even mounted a Disco1 front damper on my front pinion guard:





If you could post some pics of your auxiliary tank, that would be sweet. I've always wanted one but can't get myself to install one.
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  #27  
Old March 8th, 2007, 04:54 PM
dchapman dchapman is offline
Daniel Chapman
KJ4BXR
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: VA
Posts: 1,117
John,
I'm curious as to why you mounted your rear drive-shaft with the slip yoke toward the axle. I understand that sometimes people do this for a slight advantage in clearance. But, on the other hand, if the splines ever got damaged from a bolder your drive-shaft is junk.

Some might say a bolder making contact with the drive-shaft will cause damage anyway. But from what I've seen, this is not always the case.

Why risk it?
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  #28  
Old March 8th, 2007, 05:06 PM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,056
Hmm, I didn't even know it was backward. I removed the shaft several times over the years and never even paid attention.

Is the slip joint supposed to be on the transfer box end of the D90's rear shaft?
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  #29  
Old March 8th, 2007, 05:35 PM
dchapman dchapman is offline
Daniel Chapman
KJ4BXR
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: VA
Posts: 1,117
Really, it's 6 one way and half a dozen the other. It's just my preference to have the "beef" at the end most likely to make contact with an object. Others believe the extra 1/4" of clearance is justifiable.

From the factory, at least on the Disco's, the slip yoke is at the transfer case end.
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  #30  
Old March 8th, 2007, 05:56 PM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,056
I don't care about the extra clearance, but I have to wonder which end of the rear driveshaft is stronger in terms of resistance to stones.

I would think that the hollow end of the rear shaft would be stronger in terms of twist, but the slip-jointed end to be stronger in terms of resistance to bending when the vehicle weight is on the shaft and the shaft is sitting on a stone. I'm not sure though.

One thing for sure is that the rubber boot covering the slip joint is more susceptible to damage on the axle end than on the transfer box end. But then again wouldn't water want to drain out of the driveshaft better if the slip joint is lower?

I'll probably just leave it the way it is. LOL.
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  #31  
Old March 9th, 2007, 06:20 AM
dchapman dchapman is offline
Daniel Chapman
KJ4BXR
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: VA
Posts: 1,117
As for the water, with all the grease around the slip yoke, water is not likely to penetrate.

In terms of strength, yes, the slip yoke side is probably more resistant to damage from pressure placed on it. But, it's the splines that scare me. If the splines turn on a rock, it's reasonable to think they would "mushroom". Then, your slip yoke does not slip very good....

Either way, I'm sure it's fine. I was just wondering what your theory was.
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  #32  
Old March 9th, 2007, 08:37 AM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,056
No theory at all. I hadn't even noticed that it was backward.

I'll reverse it the next time I have my rear driveshaft off.
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  #33  
Old March 15th, 2007, 06:48 PM
rav
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSQ
wah.

so they don't deploy with the push of a button.
they're still the best thing you can use.

Agreed, they are the best chain option. I guess I'm just getting lazy in my old age. I just don't really enjoy spending an hour laying in 18" of snow, digging out each wheel and generally freezing my ass off anymore. I like the "deploy at a push of a button" idea though.
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  #34  
Old March 19th, 2007, 04:33 PM
dmarchand dmarchand is offline
David Marchand
KB1NYP
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 177
Some pics of the tank. Let me know if you'd like some others. Tried to get all of them from underneath. Back side of the tank is mounted to the frame outrigger. I just realized I forgot pics of the interior where the cutout for the filler is.
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  #35  
Old March 19th, 2007, 04:42 PM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,056
Oh man, that tank is sweet. Much nicer than the other kits I've seen.
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  #36  
Old March 19th, 2007, 06:13 PM
parantaeyang parantaeyang is offline
Won Park
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 503
Do you need to drop the tank to change the bushing or is there enough room there? From the photos, it seems tight.
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  #37  
Old March 20th, 2007, 04:57 AM
dmarchand dmarchand is offline
David Marchand
KB1NYP
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 177
Barely enough room to change the bushing. No need to drop the tank.

Here is a pic of the RA tank. Not as elegant.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tank1.jpg (23.0 KB, 48 views)
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  #38  
Old March 20th, 2007, 08:30 AM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,056
I really like your tank. I am nervous about bashing it, but the baffling inside the tank would strengthen the tank immensely I would think.

Very nice.
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  #39  
Old March 21st, 2007, 05:04 AM
sheki sheki is offline
David Shechter
KC2PFB
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 571
I had one on my LE, John you saw it. In fact you took photos of it the first time we met at the old Torrence shop. It too was sloped like DM's, since I no longer have the truck I can't take photos or better examine it. The way the fuel pump worked on that one sounds similar to DM's. I had a little toggle switch that would start the fuel pump. It would transfer the fuel from the aux tank to the OEM tank. The pump would stop/shut off once it no longer detected fluid, similar to and basement sump pump. I had let that thing run for many minutes after it was done transferring and never had a problem with it.

I loved having a duel tank set up, in fact it should be standard equipment on D-90's just like it is on the old Jaguars. My filler neck was inside the wheel well, it was a bit annoying to fill because you had to hold the pump filler manually, but it was super stealth.

You can have a tank made off of a card board mock up. Mount it and then have a skid plate made that sat .5" lower if you are so concerned with damage. That thing would be built proof.

Your other option if you don't want to do the tank thing... go diesel!
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  #40  
Old March 21st, 2007, 08:08 AM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,056
I remember snapping pics of it but those pics are gone to never never land. I can't find them any longer.
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  #41  
Old March 21st, 2007, 08:46 AM
chu
 
Posts: n/a
i gotta say, the smallish range thing is a big bummer in the 90s...

I had seen previous tank kits on others' trucks in this area, but they just looked like they were saying, "PLEASE HIT ME WITH A SHARP ROCK".

Seeing those pics of the RUD chain, I'm really wishing I had a set this past winter.
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  #42  
Old March 22nd, 2007, 04:38 PM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,056
Ho found for me the pics of Sheki's 1997 LE auxiliary tank, so I thought I would post up the pics.

I believe this is the auxiliary tank previously sold by British Pacific. Here's a view from the rearward underside:





And here's a view from the forward underside:





Note how the bottom of the tank sits lower than the starboard side frame rail. I wouldn't even want the bottom of the tank to be level with the bottom of the frame, let alone below the frame. This tank is just asking to get mangled on the trail.

Here's how the front of the tank is mounted to the frame outrigger:





These outriggers on my truck are mangled from trail damage. Here's a side view of the tank:





You can see that the tank would sit just below a Mantec sill protector (which sits a little lower than the factory sills). So I think the tank would get mangled some more.

After looking at David's sweet tank, Sheki's tank looks ghetto in comparison. And it's not a shit tank either. Sheki's tank is far from bad ass but it's not horrible. But it's ghetto next to David's.

Here's a close-up of the filler:





The filler is located in front of the starboard rear wheel, inside the wheel well. This pic gives you a better idea of its angle inside the rear wheel well:





You can see the fuel filter and fuel pump in this pic. The wiring for the fuel pump looks horrible to me and the ground is cracking me up, but that could be changed very easily.

David mentioned to me at dinner last night that his pump automatically shut off when it sensed the auxiliary tank was dry. David said that he could hear the auxiliary fuel pump shut off and when he left the switch ON to test the pump's automatic shut-down feature, the pump would occasionally start up when fuel sloshed around in the tank, such as when coming to the stop. That's a very cool design and I would think such a design would prevent the pump from smoking.

So with this system, gas was poured into the auxiliary tank, then filtered, and then run through the fuel pump to the main tank via the main tank's breather:





There's a secondary rubber hose running along the starboard side frame rail:





I'm not sure but it looks to me as if this hose is the breather hose for the auxiliary tank.

The system works but I'm not feeling it. I really want an auxiliary tank but the only one I would even consider right now would be Dave Marchand's.
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  #43  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 07:22 AM
dmarchand dmarchand is offline
David Marchand
KB1NYP
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 177
Thanks John.

David S. do you recall anything about the fuel pump, such as brand, etc? I would rather install a pump with a low flow cutoff than deal with cutting a hole and putting in a sender in mine.
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  #44  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 08:04 AM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,056
I'm not sure about this, but I had heard that the British Pacific auxiliary tanks were made by Aero Fuel Tanks of Corona, CA:


http://www.aerotanks.com/home/contactus.htm


Might be worth a call to them to see what pump they use. Even if Aero Fuel Tanks wasn't the manufacturer, the folks there might know what fuel pump David has.
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  #45  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 09:06 AM
sheki sheki is offline
David Shechter
KC2PFB
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 571
Sorry, wish I could be of some help but I have absolutely no idea. I would think with a little research you should be able to easily find the/similar type of pump.
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  #46  
Old March 23rd, 2007, 10:43 AM
dmarchand dmarchand is offline
David Marchand
KB1NYP
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 177
Thanks guys, I'll try aero. I've been trying google/other sites all day and found nothing of substance. I cringe at the thought of cutting a hole in the top of the tank. Plus it would be one less gauge.
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  #47  
Old March 27th, 2007, 07:12 PM
dmarchand dmarchand is offline
David Marchand
KB1NYP
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 177
Spoke to Aero today, they do indeed still carry the pump. I've ordered one at $145 and will post up the info and pictures once I receive it.
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  #48  
Old March 27th, 2007, 07:52 PM
johnlee johnlee is offline
John Lee
K6YJ
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 16,056
Sweet.
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  #49  
Old March 14th, 2008, 10:08 AM
crookthumb crookthumb is offline
Skyler Neibaur
KE7ZYL
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Rexburg, ID
Posts: 67
RUD vs pewag

Is there a difference in pewag and RUD chains as far as quality, traction, and longevity? They look similar on their websites. As far as the RUD chains are most using the classic, kantenspur or other style?

RUD-matic kantenspur V

RUD-matic classic V

pewag brenta-C 4x4
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  #50  
Old March 14th, 2008, 11:06 AM
traveltoad traveltoad is offline
Aaron Shrier
KI6BCA
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Fernando Valley
Posts: 2,625
I really like the RUD, but if I was to do it again I think I would get the Peweg. I just liked the hooks and tentioner hardware a bit better on the Peweg chains.
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